The Wildspitze (3,774 m):
Conquering Tyrol's highest mountain
At 3,774 m. the Wildspitze is Tyrol’s highest mountain – and even the second highest mountain in Austria after the Großglockner. many alpinists entertain the dream of one day standing on the summit of this majestic mountain. However, a Wildspitze tour also demands a lot from experienced mountaineers and therefore needs to be well prepared.
A mountain with two summits
The Wildspitze rises northeast of the alps main ridge out of the Otztal Alps. To the south and east she borders on the Venter valley (a side valley of the Otztal), the north- and west slope form the valley head of the Pitztal. From high above the amazing view in all directions is only limited by the curvature of the earth.
The majestic mountain massive has actually two summits, the lower firn covered north summit (3,757 m) and the higher rocky south summit. This ranking was still reserved in teh 1990s, but the northern peak is slowly melting away.
First ascent of the Wildspitze
The Wildspitze was first conquered in 1848, but it was only in 1933 that she received a summit cross. This was carried up in pieces by mountain guides from Otztal and put together on the top.
The old cross can still be visited today, during a walk from the village Vent to the “Rofenhöfen”. The place was picked quite well, for here the cross is looking directly at his old place. Furthermore were the “Rofenhöfen” the home of the first ascender, Leander Klotz.
Ascending the Wildspitze & tour tips in summer
Even though the Wildspitze does her name every honour, the ascend is doable for a routined mountaineer. Always let yourself be accompanied by an experienced mountain guide! The mountain guide association Pitztal offers different routes and rents equipement for the high altitude tour.
Day tour Pitztal - Wildspitze
Duration: ca. 6 – 8 Stunden
Difference in altitude: ca 1,200 m
The Wildspitze can be climbed in one day from the Pitztal thanks to the Gletscherexpress. The mountaineer early ride allows enough time for the ascent- The first 1,000 m in altitude (at 2,840 m) are conquered by your group with the “Glacier subway”, then you continue on foot via the Mittelbergferner to the Mittelbergjoch.
FRom here the group descends to the Taschachferner, then as a rope team up approx 750 m to the south ridge of the Wildspitze. The final highlight is an easy climbing passage over the last 100 metres in altitude. The same route leads back again.
Two days tour Pitztal with overnight stay in a hut
Duration: ca. 8-10 hours (strating from the huts)
Difference in altitude: ca. 1,120 m/1,340 m
If you want to combine the ascend with a cozy hut evening, sleeps at Taschachhaus ( 2,434 m) or at the Braunschweiger Hut (2,759 m).
As starting point or the Braunschweiger Hut is the mountain station of the Glacierexpress perfect. You reach the Taschachhaus via Mandarfen resp. Mittelberg or via the Fuldaer high altitude trail at the mountain station of the Rifflseebahn.
Ice tour at the north face
Duration: ca. 9 h
Difference in altitude: ca. 1,200 m
Instead of the normal ascent, fit and experienced mountaineers can also venture an ice tour on the Wildspitze. Similiar to the day tour, you start at the Glacierexpress mountain station (2,840 m). After descending to the Taschachferner, head south on the rope to the foot of the north face.
You thena climb a 50-60° steep snow and ice flank to the north summit of the Wildspitze, from there over the connecting ridge to the south summit. The descent is either via the normal route (Vent) or back to the Glacierexpress.
Two days tour: Vent - Breslauer Hütte - wildspitze
Duration: ca. 12-14 hours (completely)
Difference in altitude: ca. 1,900 m
The route from Vent in the Ötztal (1,900 m) to the Wildspitze starts with an easy mounatin hike to the Breslauer hut (2,844 m). Only on the second day does it get challenging: Now the route leads upwards over the steep Mittelkarferner. This is followed by the via ferrata to the Mitterkarjoch with partly difficult (C-) passages.
Finally, you cross some crevasses on the Taschachferner and ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. the way back is the same.
In Winter: Skitour to the Wildspitze
High altitude ski tour to the Wildspitze
Duration: ca. 5-7 hours
Difference in altitude: ca. 750 m (ascend)
The ski tour starts at the mountain station of the Mittelbergbahn (3,273 m) on the Pitztal Glacier. From here you descend via the Mittelbergjoch to the Taschachferner. passing exciting ice formations, the tour leads to the ski depot at approx. 3,680m. From there it’s another 100 metres in altitude to the summit cross, which you cover on the rope with crampons.
After the descent to the ski depot, there is an almost 2,000 m long descent over the Taschachferner to the valley station of the Gletscherexpress in Mittelberg
Skitour Jubiläumsgrat (northeast ridge)
Duration: ca. 6-8 hours
Difference in altitude: ca. 750 m (ascend)
The Jubiläumsgrat tour starts like the normal route up to the Anfellplatz on the Taschachferner. This time, however, the ascent is via the north-facing glacier to the Jubiläumsgrat. Along the beautiful firn ridge you ascend to the north summit ad then to the main summit with a tremendous view.
You return to the valley via the south-west ridge and the 2,000 m descent, just like on the normal high-altitude tour.
Admiring the Wildspitze from Café 3440
You prefer to appraise the Wildspitze from a distance? Then an ascend with the Glacier Express and the Wildspitzbahn is worthwhile. The latter bears its name quite rightly: When you arrive at the mountain station, the Wildspitze risies in all its glory before you. In Café 3440 you can enjoy coffee and cake in her company.
Would you like a first glimpse? The Webcam of the Pitztal Glacier provides it from home.
Lodgings for your Wildspitze- Tour
If a long day of travelling lies behind you, then you can choose between many inviting lodgings in Pitztal. Family businesses with typical tyrolean charme and a focus on sustainable management are looking forward to your visit.
That's how you get to your Wildspitze tour in PItztal
Zielbahnhof: Bahnhof Imst-Pitztal
So kommt man vom Bahnhof Imst-Pitztal ins Pitztal
- mit dem öffentlichen Bus
- mit dem Taxi (Fahrt dauert ca. 25 Minuten)
- Shuttleservice vom Hotel – je nach Vereinbarung mit jeweiligem Unterkunftsgeber